Cosmetic Chemistry articles by Florence Barrett-Hill

A series of articles on the topic of Cosmetic Chemistry by Florence Barrett-Hill taken from www.Beautymagonline.com


Acid/Alkaline Balance of the Skin
The aqueous film on the surface of the skin is called the acid mantle or hydrolipic film. It is the skin’s primary defence against bacteria and is composed of sebaceous oil, sweat and epidermic secretions. The film is slightly acid and serves many essential functions. What we clean with on a daily basis can dramatically effect this acid/alkaline Balance.
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Alcohols in cosmetic formulations
Alcohol, in its many forms, is used in skin care and cosmetic formulations for a variety of purposes, and the presence of these substances in formulations is always the source of discussion concerning their claimed beneficial or adverse properties.
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Enzymes in Cosmetic Formulations
Enzymes are effective cellular catalysts responsible for controlling thousands of reactions in the cell; they are very special, active proteins.Their use in cosmetic formulations may represent a safe way to promote the efficient functions of the enzymes in the skin to help maintain the healthy appearance of the skin.
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Collagen Stimulating Supplements
There has been an increase in the marketing of supplements that are supposed to increase collagen within skin and turn back the clock of an ageing skin- but do they work? Can they provide the nutritional requirements of the fibroblast to create better or more collagen?
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Conversion, Storage & Processing of Fat
Have you ever wondered what fat is? When a person “gets fat” — gains weight — what is actually happening inside the person’s body? What are “fat cells” and how do they work?
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Hyponatremia: Drinking too much Water?
Is it possible to drink too much water? If so, how much is too much? Hyponatremia has been called water intoxication because of the symptoms it produces.
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The Importance of Essential Fatty Acids
In the pursuit of a trim figure, we may be unknowingly “starving” our bodies of the “good” fats. Essential fatty acids (EFA’s) are vital for healthy skin, hair and nails. In this article we explore some of the vital functions of EFA’s in relation to the skin.
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Moisturiser Chemistry Explained
There is a common misconception that moisturisers are defined as chemicals that increase the water content of the stratum corneum and are hydrating agents.This misconception leads one to believe that the water content of the moisturiser has the greatest effect on the skin. But like many things in aesthetics & beauty therapy, it is only part of the story……
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Penetration Enhancement of Hydrolysed Collagen
There are a plethora of cosmetic products containing Hydrolysed Collagen for healthier, plumper skin. However for the most part the promoters of these products are unable to answer the question of how the introduced collagen achieves this even if it can be delivered transdermally still exists.
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pH & Skin Cleansers
There are many skin conditions we see every day in our clinics where the practices of our clients or patients have unwittingly been contributing to the development or acceleration of their conditions by using inappropriate cleansers and practices. I am talking about the destruction of the acid mantle.
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Propylene Glycol in Skin Care: How safe is it?
This is a question I have been asked on a number of occasions at various seminars and training courses. Unfortunately the perceived fear of this substance seems to be largely generated by the opinions of enthusiastic natural products marketers rather than fact. Let’s look at what Propylene Glycol is, why it is in our cosmetic formulations and explore the safety of it.
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Preservatives & Packaging in Skin Care
Skin conditions and disorders commonly seen in clinic today all seem to have one common denominator in that they all suffer from barrier disorders.
We have learnt in recent years about the ‘wash out’ effect of essential skin lipids caused by common anionic and cationic emulsifiers are contributing to this increase in barrier disordered skin, but there are other factors in play that are contributing to these disorders.
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Nutrition for the Summer Skin
While sun exposure provides benefits, it can also cause reductions in Vitamins A & C, folic acid, Vitamin E and lycopene, and changes the oils within your skin’s cells.
It’s only when you don’t follow healthy dietary habits that you become unnaturally vulnerable to sun damage and disease.
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Topically Applied Collagen
There have been numerous claims of topically applied collagen efficiency to directly assist in the treatment of fine lines and wrinkles by supplementing the skins own collagen, and in years past, we believed the marketing hype that led us to trust that topically applied collagen had the ability to do this. As professionals, we are now more aware of the real facts behind this myth…
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Your Sunscreen May Not Prevent Skin Ageing
While sunscreens are an important part of any skin cancer prevention strategy, your sunblock may not prevent skin ageing.There are other complimentary strategies you can use in conjunction.
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Understanding Male Menopause
It is said that the purpose of male menopause is to signal the end of the first part of a man’s life and prepare him for the second half: “It is not the beginning of the end, as many fear, but the ‘end of the beginning’.
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Vitamin A in Cosmetic Formulations
Vitamin A is the dominant vitamin of the skin because it has a fundamental role in the control of normal activities of skin cells. Consequently, it’s no surprise that Vitamin A is used in many highly effective skin care products. Lets’s explore a few facts surrounding Vitamin A.
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Vitamin C in Cosmetic Formulations
Vitamin C is always a good choice for the Skin conditions of Collagen loss, Thin skin density (fragile), Diffused redness, Healing assist, Pigmentation, Skin aging and all forms of Environmental Defense, so let’s explore the different types used in cosmetic formulations.
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Vitamins E & A and the Skin
Vitamins have not been successfully used in cosmetics until relatively recently; because of the belief that they could not penetrate the skin and because the metabolic activity of the skin was not adequately known.
Now, with a better understanding of the physiology of hair, skin and nails, interest in topically applied vitamins has increased.
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Vitamin E for Skin Maintenance & Protection
Relatively recent research has pointed to the need for Vitamin E in the maintenance of normal body metabolism, and in the protection of body tissues and skin from damage caused by normal body processes.
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Why Say No to Emulsifiers?
Emulsifiers in skin care are proving to cause a modification of the stratum corneum lipid structure (Bilayers) and consequently the skin barrier defences. The lasting emulsifying capacity of some emulsifiers penetrated into the skin can cause an increased transport of the skins own protective substances when the skin comes in contact with water. This is known as the ‘wash out’ effect.
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