|
Chapter one: Understanding formulations
|
|
Making sense of the label
Formulation basics
Surfactants
Surfactants for cleaning
pH of Cosmetic Products
Formulation
review one
Humectants-saturation-hydration
Amino acids
Humectants
Marine based humectants
Oil-free emulsions
Formulation
review two
Emolients-saturation-hydration
Controversial emollients
Silicones
Fatty acids
Emollients that mimic
skin structure & function
Essential fatty
acids
Omegas
Ceramides & sphingolipids
Formulation
review three |
2
5
6
9
11
13
14
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
26
26
27
28
30 |
|
Cosmetic
formulation delivery systems
Liposomes
Nanotechnology
Microspheres & Microsponges
Peptides & amino acids
Formulatory
processing aids
Texturisers &
thickeners
Reducers & solvents
Comedogenic effects of raw cosmetic materials
Formulation
review four
Preservatives
Botanical preservatives
Parabens
Formaldehyde releasing preservatives
Chelating agents
Minimising the use of preservatives
Formulation
review five
Fragrance in Formulations
Colour in formulations
Formulation review six |
31
32
33
34
35
37
37
38
40
41
42
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
53
56 |
|
|
|
Essential
oils, botanicals & organics
Essential oils
Clay, earths and mud used in cosmetics
Organic & natural
Green chemistry
Vitamins
as actives
Vitamin A
Vitamin A esters
Retinyl palmitate
Retinol & Retinoic acid
Vitamin B group
Vitamin C: Ascorbic Acid
L Ascorbic Acid
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Vitamin E
Tocopherol group
Tocotrienols
Chirally Correct?
Antioxidants
Lipid peroxidation
Effective antioxidants
Bioflavonoids/polyphenols and carotenoids
Spin traps
Formulation review
seven |
57
58
60
62
63
64
64
65
65
66
66
67
68
68
69
70
70
70
71
72
72
73
75
77
78
|
|
Sun
protection actives & actions
Sun protection methodologies
Physical sunscreens
Titanium dioxide
Zinc oxide
Coated nanoparticles
Chemical sunscreens
Para amino benzoates (PABA)
Benzophenones
Brand compounds
Alternative sun protection actives
Protection and application
Overuse of sun protection products
Efficiency of common sunscreen/blocks
Formulation review
final
The
chemical galaxy: A new look at the periodic table
|
79
80
81
81
81
82
83
83
83
84
84
85
88
88
89
90-93
|
|
Chapter two:
Linking product composition to texture skin conditions
|
The Pastiche method of condition diagnosis
Basic majority skin
types & protocols
Skin barrier defence systems
Skin
condition to product composition relationship
Skin
conditions that change the texture of skin
Skin condition:
hyper-keratinisation
Open & closed comedones
Treatment solutions overview
Acids
pH is a consideration
Glycolic acid & AHA’s
Lactic acid
Ammonium Lactate
Mandelic Acid
Fruit Acids
Beta hydroxy acid
Salicylic acid
Beta-lipohydroxy acid
Other desquamating aids
Enzymes
Bromelain or Papaine
Peptides for Hyper-keratinisation
Inflammatory acne grade 3
The hormonal component
Inflammatory process of acne
Treatment solutions overview
Azelaic Acid : 5a Reductase Inhibitor
Niacinamide
Vitamin B6
Zinc
Benzoyl Peroxide
Treatment
solutions cross-reference
|
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
101
101
101
103
104
104
104
105
105
105
106
107
107
107
108
108
108
109
109
109
109
109
110
110
|
|
Loss of structural integrity
& thin skin density
Connective tissue and fibroblasts
Treatment solution overview
Ascorbic acid
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Bioflavonoids for Collagen Synthesis
Vitamin A for Collagen Synthesis
Peptides for Collagen Synthesis
Growth factors for Collagen Synthesis
Supporting fluids of the dermis
Hyaluronic acid
DMAE for an aged skin
Calcium for an aged skin
Hydrolysed collagen & elastin protein
Treatment solutions
cross-reference
|
111
111
112
112
113
113
114
115
116
116
117
117
118
118
118
119
|
|
|
|
Chapter three:
Linking product composition to colour skin conditions
|
|
Skin conditions that effect the colour of skin
Pigmentation
Intervention in the Melanogenesis process
Treatment solutions overview
MSH inhibitors
Tyrosinase Inhibitors
Pigment granule inhibitors
Melanosome transfer
inhibitors
New compounds for skin lightening
Controversial actives that inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme
Antioxidants for pigmentation and lipid peroxidation
Treatment
solutions cross-reference
Photosensitising
substances that can cause hyer/hypo pigmentation
|
122
123
123
125
125
126
127
128
128
129
130
132
133
|
|
Chapter four:
Linking product composition to secretion skin conditions
|
|
Skin conditions related to secretions
EFAD & oxidative
stress
Treatment solutions overview
Phospholipids
Squalene
Sphingolipids
Ceramides
Linolenic and linoleic acids
Biomimetic epidermic lipids
Lipid peroxidation
Treatment solutions overview
Antioxidants most suitable & effective
Treatment
solutions cross-reference
Impaired enzyme
activity
Water phases of the epidermis & dermis
Water soluble of the epidermis
Treatment solutions overview
Epidermal, dermal & intracellular compatible humectants
Amino acids
Calcium & magnesium
Urea
Treatment
solutions cross-reference
Summary
|
136
137
138
138
138
139
140
140
141
142
142
142
144
145
145
146
147
147
147
148
149
150
151 |
| |
|
Regulatory bodies & associations of interest
Definitions A-Z
References |
152
153
177
|
| |
