Table of contents for

Cosmetic Chemistry

For the Skin Treatment Therapist

By Florence Barrett-Hill

 ISBN 978-0-473-12467-0

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Chapter one: Understanding formulations


Making sense of the label

Formulation basics
Surfactants
Surfactants for cleaning
pH of Cosmetic Products

Formulation review one

Humectants-saturation-hydration

Amino acids
Humectants
Marine based humectants
Oil-free emulsions

Formulation review two

Emolients-saturation-hydration

Controversial emollients
Silicones
Fatty acids

Emollients that mimic skin structure & function

Essential fatty acids
Omegas
Ceramides & sphingolipids

Formulation review three


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Cosmetic formulation delivery systems

Liposomes
Nanotechnology
Microspheres & Microsponges
Peptides & amino acids

Formulatory processing aids

Texturisers & thickeners
Reducers & solvents
Comedogenic effects of raw cosmetic materials

Formulation review four

Preservatives
Botanical preservatives
Parabens
Formaldehyde releasing preservatives
Chelating agents
Minimising the use of preservatives

Formulation review five

Fragrance in Formulations
Colour in formulations

Formulation review six


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Essential oils, botanicals & organics

Essential oils
Clay, earths and mud used in cosmetics
Organic & natural
Green chemistry

Vitamins as actives

Vitamin A
Vitamin A esters
Retinyl palmitate
Retinol & Retinoic acid
Vitamin B group
Vitamin C: Ascorbic Acid
L Ascorbic Acid
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Vitamin E
Tocopherol group

Tocotrienols
Chirally Correct?

Antioxidants

Lipid peroxidation
Effective antioxidants
Bioflavonoids/polyphenols and carotenoids
Spin traps

Formulation review seven

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Sun protection actives & actions

Sun protection methodologies
Physical sunscreens
Titanium dioxide
Zinc oxide
Coated nanoparticles
Chemical sunscreens
Para amino benzoates (PABA)
Benzophenones
Brand compounds
Alternative sun protection actives
Protection and application
Overuse of sun protection products
Efficiency of common sunscreen/blocks

Formulation review final

The chemical galaxy: A new look at the periodic table

 

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Chapter two: 
Linking product composition to texture skin conditions


The Pastiche method of condition diagnosis

Basic majority skin types & protocols
Skin barrier defence systems

Skin condition to product composition relationship

Skin conditions that change the texture of skin

Skin condition: hyper-keratinisation
Open & closed comedones
Treatment solutions overview
Acids
pH is a consideration
Glycolic acid & AHA’s
Lactic acid
Ammonium Lactate

Mandelic Acid
Fruit Acids
Beta hydroxy acid
Salicylic acid
Beta-lipohydroxy acid
Other desquamating aids
Enzymes

Bromelain or Papaine
Peptides for Hyper-keratinisation
Inflammatory acne grade 3
The hormonal component
Inflammatory process of acne
Treatment solutions overview

Azelaic Acid : 5a Reductase Inhibitor

Niacinamide
Vitamin B6
Zinc

Benzoyl Peroxide

Treatment solutions cross-reference


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Loss of structural integrity & thin skin density
Connective tissue and fibroblasts
Treatment solution overview
Ascorbic acid
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Bioflavonoids for Collagen Synthesis
Vitamin A for Collagen Synthesis
Peptides for Collagen Synthesis
Growth factors for Collagen Synthesis
Supporting fluids of the dermis
Hyaluronic acid
DMAE for an aged skin
Calcium for an aged skin
Hydrolysed collagen & elastin protein

Treatment solutions cross-reference

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Chapter three:
Linking product composition to colour skin conditions


Skin conditions that effect the colour of skin

Pigmentation
Intervention in the Melanogenesis process
Treatment solutions overview

MSH inhibitors
Tyrosinase Inhibitors
Pigment granule inhibitors
Melanosome transfer inhibitors
New compounds for skin lightening
Controversial actives that inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme
Antioxidants for pigmentation and lipid peroxidation

Treatment solutions cross-reference

Photosensitising substances that can cause hyer/hypo pigmentation


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Chapter four: 
Linking product composition to secretion skin conditions


Skin conditions related to secretions

EFAD & oxidative stress
Treatment solutions overview

Phospholipids

Squalene

Sphingolipids
Ceramides

Linolenic and linoleic acids

Biomimetic epidermic lipids
Lipid peroxidation
Treatment solutions overview
Antioxidants most suitable & effective

Treatment solutions cross-reference

Impaired enzyme activity
Water phases of the epidermis & dermis
Water soluble of the epidermis
Treatment solutions overview
Epidermal, dermal & intracellular compatible humectants
Amino acids
Calcium & magnesium
Urea

Treatment solutions cross-reference

Summary

 


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Regulatory bodies & associations of interest

Definitions A-Z

References


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